How To Frame Basement Walls Video
How To Frame Basement Walls Video Transcript
in this video we're going to go throughinterior framing of a basement wall I'm
going to show you various layouts for
your studing 12 inches 16 inches and 24
inches on center
I'm explain to you why you would use
these various spacings I'm going to show
you how to anchor the floor to the wall
to the ceiling and level it up so let's
get started
this is the section of wall we're going
to be framing from this stud here to
this corner stud here there's going to
be a door approximately here this is
going to be the bedroom of the basement
got to measure the length of the wall so
that we can cut our top and bottom plate
to the exact length the wall is going to
be I've got my butt end of the tape at
the start of our wall and at the finish
here I'm measuring 116 and a quarter
inches so I'm going to measure out the
top and bottom plate and then we can get
into some laying out of the studs and
doorway okay so this is going to be my
top plate and this is going to be my
bottom plate the bottom plate is in
contact with concrete whenever you're in
those situations you want to use
protected from rot the top plate doesn't
matter stay dry so I'm just going to
begin by marking out 116 and a quarter
on each of these
I like to use a speed square to square
cross my line across the whole piece of
material so it's easy to run your skill
saw along it and not such a big deal on
us on a long piece like this but when
you're I like to mark an X on the
wayside so that you know which side
you're keeping when you're using shorter
pieces it's helpful to know which side
you're actually use and which side is is
okay so now that we've got our plates
marked out I'm going to begin by putting
on my safety gear and cutting these down
to length so that I can show you the
layout next
okay now that you've got your wall
plates cut the lengths you're going to
want to lay out your study as I
mentioned earlier there is three normal
spacings for studying which is a twelve
inch on center a sixteen inch on center
and a 24 inch on center spacing in my
particular situation I'm going to use a
sixteen inch on center but for
through the three different ways for you
pay in this particular wall I am going
to have a doorway approximately here for
explanation purposes I'm going to go
through regular spacing for you at first
and then show you how to measure out
where to put the door and after so our
study material is inch and a half thick
so that's very important because when
we're making our indicator lines for
placement of the studs if we want our
stud tool and center of the twelve inch
line or Center of the 16 inch line for
center of the two foot line which we
the thickness of the material so that we
can put an indicator line there which
will create the center spacing for the
studing with your tape measure clip on
the end to do a twelve inch on center
spacing or one foot on Center spacing
you're going to find the twelve the one
the twelve inch line subtract back three
quarters of an inch and Mark a line then
you're going to find the two foot line
subtract back three quarters of an inch
mark a line you're going to find the
three foot line subtract back three
quarters of an inch make an indicator
quarters of an inch indicator line five
foot mark back three quarters of an inch
indicator line
now you are going to place your stud
edge on this line and to create a center
you want to place the stud on that side
of the X so I like to put a X indicating
the side of the stud that I'm going to
or the side of the line that I'm going
to put the studying on now that you've
got that ready you take your framing
square set up on the line and mimic that
line down below so this piece of
material is representing our studying
line marked here and the X on that side
when I space my wall apart I'm going to
nail it on that side of the line the
bottom identically the same and when you
measure from the edge you're hitting
Center marking for the three foot
spacing go back here you're hitting your
two foot on Center spacing so that's how
to layout a wall on a 12 inch on Center
spacing ok another on Center spacing
that that is commonly used is a 24 inch
on center spacing or a 2 foot on Center
spacing which is the same in this
basement I've used that over here it is
okay so the layout for a 24 inch or 2
foot on Center spacing is very similar
to the 12 inch or one foot on Center
spacing you're basically just going on
two foot increments so we've already got
that marked so you go to foot measure
back three quarters of an inch mark your
line you would go 4 foot measure back
three quarters of an inch mark your
line six foot measure back three
quarters of an inch mark your line eight
foot measure back three quarters of an
inch and Mark your line in twenty four
inch on center spacing you do save some
as strong and is more acceptable to
warping just because of the less
material now I'm going to show you how
to do a sixteen inch on center spacing
which is the spacing I'm going to use
for this wall clip your tape on the end
and again find the 16 measure back three
quarters of an inch mark your X find the
32 measure back three quarters of an
inch mark your X find your 48 measure
back three quarters of an inch mark your
X 64 measure back three quarters of an
inch mark your X 80 measure back three
quarters mark your X 96 unless you're
measure back three quarters mark your X
now there's no need to mark your start
and your finish and I'm not too sure if
you've noticed but 16 on Center spacing
is the most commonly used spacing and it
is indicated by most tape measures in a
red or a different number so it's quite
easy to pick out as you can see here
with the 64 the 80 and the 96
now that I've got my on Center spacing
mark for my studing I'm going to proceed
with marking in a doorway to enter into
the bedroom in this particular layout
the door is going to be right here
find the edge of the wall on the inside
of the wall which is here I'll put a
mark there and you when you install your
door you're going to want some some trim
casing on the inside facing here so you
need to space off to allow for that
casing around the door I usually go with
three to four inches you can go with any
size you want if you know your trim size
if it's two and a quarter inches or
three inches or whatever I go with four
so it's nice and safe and I don't have
any issues with it so start by finding
that inside corner point measure over
going to be from this line over so I put
the X on this side now here I'm going to
put a 30-inch door in I've checked with
my door supplier to fit a 30-inch door
into the opening I need to go with a 32
inch wide opening so I find a 32 inch
measure over put that line again the
door width is on the inside so that X
will go on the outside
put this square that across mark my X
now to eliminate confusion of this of
the lines I like to
indicate the door with different colors
so when I'm putting studying in I know
which spots were for my door so I've got
a red felt marker I'm going to mark this
in I'm going to write the door size for
the rough opening so there's no
confusion it's 32 inch by 80 inch tall
and then this one is my other side now
it's really good to put these extra
colors and indicators down so that you
don't get confused these studs will
obviously not go in because that's where
the doorway is and the height is 80
inches tall so there will be some space
above the door where I will use these
indicator lines so now that we've got
our wall plates laid out for our stud
spacing and doorway we need to look at
where we're going to attach the wall at
the start of the wall I've got this
existing wall that I'll be able to
attach into at the other side of the
wall I've got this corner step that I'll
be able to attach to but up in the
ceiling spaces I have nothing the wall
is going to float across this section
here so what I'm going to do is put some
blocking from this truss to this truss
on a 2 foot on Center spacing so that
when the wall gets stood up I've got
somewhere to anchor it to okay to solve
the problem for attaching the wall at
the top I need to install some backing
for it between the TGI joist I'm going
to proceed by measuring the width
between here I've got 16 and 5/8 mark it
down
I've got a piece pre-cut just so I can
show you how it's going to fit in so
just like that that will get attached
through here through here on and on the
opposite side and then the wall will get
attached up into it this also creates
drywall backing on this side of the wall
and this side of the wall so that the
drywall has something to be firmly
attached to going to lay out from this
edge down that way on a two foot on
Center spacing I'm not going to get
carried away with reducing off the
reducing off the increments because this
material is so wide out we'll just be
marking 24 inch and putting a line and
eyeing this piece in so seems I'm by
myself working I need someone to hold
the tape measure on this opposite edge
here but you can replace out with the
screw something to attach my tape
measures new just like that clip my tape
on that and I'm ready to go 24 48
six feet 8 feet and one on the corner
now I've got all the blocking cut the
size I'm going to show you how to
install it into the joy spacing here if
you're having troubles getting it to
stay you can start a screw alright now
it's installing the block eight blocking
in with screws you can also use nails if
you want or pneumatic air nailer another
method of installing the blocking in the
joist faces above would be a pneumatic
nailer go in here with the pneumatic
nail you're going to want make sure you
have your eye protection on at the very
least I like eyes and ears protected go
up I'll put it on your indicator line
line up the nailer and go now that's
that's in there good and tight so if
it's all it to anchor the wall - okay
now that we've got our backing installed
at the top and we've got our floor at
the bottom we're going to measure for
our stud links one way to measure for
your stud links would be to measure off
the floor rate to the backing subtract
off the thickness of this material more
precise way that I prefer to use is to
lay the top and bottom plate in position
measure off that top to the blocking
you don't have to do any subtracting
it'll just give you your your stub
length right away and there we go
ninety-two and five eggs 92 and
five-eighths one last fall 92 and
five-eighths I'm going to count out how
many studs I need one two three four
five six seven skipping this one
skipping this one eight nine and I also
need an extra one in the corner for four
corner backing which will happen right
in here and I'll explain that as I'm
nailing this wall together
right now that we've got our final stud
cut stock it over here with the others
I'm going to clear this space here
spread these wall plates apart and begin
to place my studing in the approximate
positions now I'm going to get to put
these studs in all right now we're
talking laid out with the stud in here
I've left the last two out here because
I want to nail those together in a
different manner before I put them in so
when you're attaching one wall like this
one to an existing wall you want to have
corner backing for the drywall a common
way to do that is to take two two by
fours for your stud lengths and attach
them together in this manner now that
you've got those two pieces of wood
attached together you're going to
install it into your wall in this
positioning by doing that can you stand
your wall up against this other wall
by making the l-shape we've got an
inch-and-a-half material that sticks
past here that will allow this drywall
to go through and attach on this side
and this drywall to come through and
attach on this side creating an inside
corner backing today now you've got all
your studs in rough position cut to
length you're ready to assemble your
wall together
now there's three choices for assembly
I've been using the pneumatic nailer
which you know is quite fast to put a
wall together and if you've got a lot of
framing to do you definitely want to
increase your speed
another method is just plain old hammer
nails as well as a drill and screw them
together so whichever you'd like to go
with is is all fine some benefits to
screwing is if you've made a mistake you
can easily correct it I'll start by
showing you that how my stud right on
the indicator line this is where it's
very helpful to have your ex there as
well so you know which side of the stud
is going to for a 2x4 wall I like to use
two screws per per end if I was framing
with two by six we'd use three two by
eight I would use four
so as you go up in spacing you just add
a fastener per every two inches
all right and that's that's a hand
screwing it together again if I found
that I did something wrong
quite easy to hook back onto it back it
out make your adjustment put it back in
high another method is hammer nails have
the stud on the x side of the indicator
line start your nail now again with this
setup if I needed to make a correction
it would be quite hard I'd have to bang
the wall apart get some sort of crowbar
to get those out so if you're just
starting to do stuff around your place
probably be better to use the screws
there we go that's two methods I'm going
to finish it off with the pneumatic
nailer which is quite a bit faster and
here we go
I'll shove this this way a lot of times
the studs are warped and twisted as they
dry has you're nailing it together you
got to do your best to get them get them
into position by twisting them back into
straight and putting a fastener into it
there you have it
walls put together with the studing in
got my doorway framed out there all
that's left to do is put the top in for
the door
and then stand the wall and attach it to
the system backing that I've got all the
way through check the level and then
we'll proceed with anchoring these walls
down to the concrete floor now that
you've got your studying in place here
going back to the original rough opening
size for the door which is 32 inches by
8 eat all those are off the bottom of
your wall mark your 80 inches again
putting an X to the side of this study
is going to go
user swear swear that across square that
okay so I'm going to cut a piece of wood
to go across here which will finish off
my opening for the door 32 inches wide
by 80 inches tall then I've also got two
studs to put in above the door for
drywall backing and we should be ready
to stand it now I don't know the exact
length for the studs that are going to
be above the door I could do some math
and figure it out but I much rather cut
this put it in place measure the next
two and cut those
okay um I'm going to screw these ones
because I got some worked wood it's
going to help it's going to help pull it
any tighter I'll put the I'll put two
more in once I've stood the wall and can
get at the other side okay following
with our existing 16 on center layout
are these indicator points here I need
to put two in here to add so again
measuring off the edge 15 and a quarter
31 and a quarter 15 and 1/4 X 31 and 1/4
X square those across now measure for
length all right I've got 12 inches 5 8
and 12 inches 5
all right there you have it finish wall
ready to go at the inside corner backing
got the Bravo opening for the door got
my 16 on center stud spacing
okay so now that you've got your wall
approximately in position on your line
down on your floor this wall existing
wall that I'm tying into I know is level
I'm going to double check it nail these
two together then I'm going to come to
this far corner level this corner level
this corner and then come on this side
and attach down through right now we'll
install a male into each one of these
blocks and that will be a finished ready
to go wall
okay that's perfect all right crowd you
got your wall certainly in place ha
let's do last couple checks on it make
sure you're happy with everything that's
great
perfect perfect looking good and looking
good just going to finish off by nailing
it to the blocking right and that's
finished wolf ready to move on to the
next step
my choice for anchoring down to the wall
would be wedge anchor nail which is a
fluted concrete nail they recommend you
use a 3/16 inch bit which is slightly
smaller than this nail you would drill
the hole to the depth that you need and
use your hammer to pound this down in
and that will anchor it down to the
concrete floor so to anchor our wall
down to the floor we are using a
drilling method into the concrete floor
if you've got electrical lines or heated
concrete floors or anything like that
where you're not sure and you and you
might hit something that's in the
concrete you could use a concrete
adhesive or any construction adhesive
you would apply a bead the length of the
wall and then stand your wall up on top
of that after 24 hours or so that wall
would be glued down to the floor enough
to carry on with your project to avoid
drilling too deep to the wall I like to
take my nail put
against the bit mark myself an indicator
line to stop the drilling and that way
I'm not drilling too far through the
floor it's just better better
construction practice to do it this way
now I've got my bit marked safety gear
on take my concrete drill
okay so that drill bit is brought down
to my indicator line I'm now going to
proceed with reaming out the hole a few
times to bring out the extra debris and
such that's inside there
take your concrete now there we go
balls nice and firm bat move it a bit ok
now this wall is firmly attached to the
concrete firmly attached to the other
wall across the ceiling and to the other
corner got your doorway framed in and
you're sixteen inch on center spacing
everything looks good you're ready to
move on to your next wall